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August 5, 2005
Day Two: Jordan to Thomas
Jordan Lake: Perfectly quiet night. Many stars out. I awake at 4am for the second day in a row and return to a fitful sleep. The rest of the night I sleep solidly. I have a headache, probably as a result of the cold that CB has given me. It is much cooler in the morning than it was when I fell asleep. Incredibly quiet in the morning. We speak in whispers. Canoe loaded and we are underway by 9:15am.
Thomas Lake: We cross Jordan Lake and a canoe full of Boy Scouts points out a bald eagle in a dead tree above the lake, practically right above us. I reckon that it is the same individual from the day before. The channel connecting Jordan and Ima lakes is beautiful, and an easy paddle as well. Before long we are in the open water of Ima Lake. We see a few other morning paddlers, mostly making their way back to Ensign. Between Ima and Thomas are some lily-covered swamps. Short (and thus level) portages connect a series of swampy channels. At one of these portages, we encounter a group of girl scouts. At another, we meet some boy scouts from the Bay Area. I am sure that this is moose country, though I suspect that they are farther north this time of year. One of the portages looks navigable. As I investigate its runnability, I step in mucl nearly to the top of my boots. They protect me well. Eventually, the pools become larger and we enter Thomas Pond. One last short portage and we are into Thomas Lake.
Ima and Thomas are both large lakes: excellent for fishing I suppose, but not so intriguing for paddlers. I work on my J and Prow strokes as we encounter some headwinds. In general, though, it is very calm and we feel as though we are making excellent time. I begin to insist that CB and I do our consulting with the map outside of the sunny areas. Shade is somewhat hard to find in the middle of the day, since as a rule only shorter trees grow along the shore.
CB makes a navigational error which takes us a little off course. It is no great difference, just that we head into more open water than is necessary. We had targeted the south end of Thomas for a campsite, and pick one on an isthmus. Indeed there is a trail all the way to the other side. The isthmus is so small in fact that the caibo [sp?] is closer to the campsite than any others I have seen in the BWCAW. CB is much more enamored with the site than I. The tentsites are none too level, and the site is at once surrounded by pines (giving it a cramped feel) and sun-baked. I suppose mid-day Minnesota in August is just like that. I again feel somewhat overheated. A mediocre site in the BWCAW is still far better accommodation than I have ever experienced elsewhere. It is remarkable to paddle out into the wilderness for a couple of days and see only the best side of humanity. There is little garbage at the sites, adults are teaching their kids stewardship and appreciation, and the sites are developed just enough to make a minimal imprint on the environment. Personally, I think the fire grates and caibos are nice touches. I think that leaving mid-week was smart too. It gives us the chance to be several days out while others are just leaving.
Stepping out on the rocks in the water, I spy a large (three treble hooks) Rapala lure wedged under a rock. I suspect a child was using it since it is a deep water lure too close to shore. I hold my breath, retrieve it, and make a gift of it to CB. The following swim feels excellent. I notice while out there that there is a small mole-like acquatic mammal living under the rocks directly below my tentsite. After a swim, I feel much better. I notice that my t-shirt is looking rather ratty.
I notice that the site is noisier than Jordan on account of the wind blowing through the pines. While CB beachcombs, I erect the tarp. I give my tarp hanging an "B+" mostly because I use an extra guy to stake down a side loop.
CB makes some casts from shore. Nothing bites. I take several photographs of an interesting butterfly that is mysteriously attracted to the canoe. I quote myself "It is true enough that the Boundary Waters belongs to all Americans, or the bald eagles or the moose. But anyone who has spent any time here can tell you that it really belongs to the loons."
Posted by Underblog at August 5, 2005 5:53 PM
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